On both ends of our recent visit to Bhutan, we stayed in Kathmandu, Nepal for a couple days. It seemed mostly the same after five years away... crowded streets, lots of noise (especially vehicles honking), street vendors and beggars, crumbling buildings. There were some differences, too. A lot of old buildings are being torn down and new buildings are being erected, the Rum Doodle has moved, and the New Orleans Cafe didn't seem to be as good a hangout place (check out the Revolution Cafe instead).
We've been through Kathmandu four times now, and that seems to me to be enough. We did enjoy visiting Swayambhunath (a.k.a. The Monkey Temple) again, especially seeing our friend Karma who works there. The temple seemed to be in very good repair compared to what it was in 2009. We also enjoyed visiting Baudhanath, and I spent most of my time there doing koras around the base of the stupa and occasionally making some photos. I was glad to not visit Pashupatinath, once was more than enough for me.
If we do end up in Kathmandu again, which is likely as it seems to be the gateway to the Himalayas, we will definitely try to stay at the Hotel Yak and Yeti, a quiet oasis in the midst of chaos.